Showing posts with label June. Show all posts
Showing posts with label June. Show all posts

Monday, June 3, 2019

What to do in the Garden in June


Planning

Construct trellises for tomatoes, cucumbers, pole beans, and vining ornamentals.  See this link for instructions on a bamboo tomato trellis. If necessary, skip ahead to 21:26 into the video.
Bamboo canes or sticks tied with string make great custom trellises.
Livestock panels, cut and bent to size, make very strong trellises.

Measure your water use by placing empty cans (or jars or mugs) where your irrigation water lands and prevent wasted water.  Only irrigate plants that need the water and consider replacing water wasting plants. Click here to learn more about catch can testing.

Planting/Propagation
Be aware - potting media dries out much faster than soil and necessitates more frequent watering, and perhaps temporary shade, until roots have time to spread into native soil.  Something as simple as setting a lawn chair to the southwest of a new plant for a week or so can make a big difference in how well it adapts to its new home.

Insects
Learn to identify beneficial insects and plant some insectary plants (e.g. Alyssum, Phacelia, coriander, candytuft, sunflower, yarrow, dill) to attract them to your garden.  An important goal is to have insectary plants blooming for as much of the year as possible.  For more information, see this link.

photo from NPIC

Monitor azaleas, primroses and other broadleaf ornamentals for root weevils. If you have notching at leaf edges and would like to minimize damage, try sticky trap products on plant trunks to trap adult weevils. Protect against damaging the bark by applying the sticky material on a 4-inch wide band of poly sheeting or burlap wrapped around the trunk. If root weevils are a consistent problem, consider removing plants and choosing resistant varieties.  See this link

From Benton County Master Gardeners -
Membership meetings:  3rd Monday Oct. to May 7:00pm Benton County Extension office.
Plant sale:  May 2 at the Benton County Fairgrounds

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

What to do in the Garden in June


Maintenance 
  Prune lilacs, forsythia, rhododendrons, and other spring blooming shrubs after blooming.


  Fertilize vegetable garden 1 month after plants emerge by side dressing alongside rows.


  Harvest thinnings from new plantings of lettuce, onion, and chard.


  Pick ripe strawberries regularly to avoid fruit-rotting diseases.


Photo from Christina Clark's garden

   Use organic mulches to conserve moisture in vegetable & ornamental beds. Even just an inch of wood chips, grass clippings, sawdust, barkdust, straw, or composted leaves will minimize loss of water.  2-4 inches will also help control weeds and improve soil.
  After normal fruit drop of apples, pears and peaches, consider thinning the remainder to for a crop of larger fruit, less branch breakage, and more consistent bearing.
Clusters of fruit can be thinned to just one.  


                           
  Make sure raised beds receive enough water to avoid drought stress. They dry out faster.

     Construct trellises for tomatoes, cucumbers, pole beans, and vining ornamentals.

  One sturdy, cost effective, attractive material for this is remesh.  It is available at hardware stores in panels of about 4'x8'.  
Photo from Nanako Smith's Garden
 The top of the panels can be held together with zip ties.

 The base of your trellis can be held in place with rebar hammered well into the soil.  Zip ties can also be used to secure the trellis to the rebar.
 For plants that require a higher trellis, 10' posts are needed to support the top and the panels are placed on end.



Planting/Propagation

  Plant dahlias & gladioli. Click here for Swan Island's tutorial on planting dahlias.   


  Most plants that are put in the ground during summer will need extra water and possibly shade.  Potting media dries out much faster than soil and necessitates more frequent watering until roots have time to spread into native soil.

  Learn to identify beneficial insects and plant some insectary plants (e.g. Alyssum, Phacelia, coriander, candytuft, sunflower, yarrow, dill) to attract them to your garden. Check with local nurseries for best selections. For more information, see Encouraging Beneficial Insects in Your Garden(PNW 550).



  Blossoms on squash and cucumbers begin to drop; this is nothing to worry about. Cherries may also drop fruit; this is not a major concern.




Tuesday, June 20, 2017

How Can You Make your Vegetable Garden More Sustainable?


By June most of our seeds have been planted and are up and growing.  And yet there may still be bare areas in our garden.  Perhaps we are leaving room for tomatoes or peppers or squashes to grow.  Often we think that leaving room means leaving bare soil, but naked earth is exactly what we do not want. 


Bare earth is “dirt,” in the words of soil microbiologist Dr. Elaine Ingham1.  What we want in our garden is not dirt, but living soil.  She and other scientists tell us that most of the life in our garden is beneath the surface and needs plant roots in order to thrive.  We need to feed those microorganisms around our plants’ roots by making sure there is little or no bare areas in our gardens.

We grew up learning about the types of soil (sand, silt, loam and the clay we have around here) in which we grow our plants and the chemicals in the earth that support plant growth, particularly N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that we use to feed our plants).  We learned about composting to improve our soil texture and chemistry, but until recently most of us had not heard much about the biology of the soil, all the little organisms eating and being eaten, pooping and reproducing in our dirt so that it becomes living soil.
 
These little guys include -- but are not limited to -- bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, and micro-arthropods as well as earthworms.  We know that worms are signs of good soil, but until recently scientists did not understand that they were part of a complex soil food network that involves thousands of kinds of organisms.  Worms are the part most of us can see without a microscope, and they and the rest of the soil community are essential to the life of our plants.  Most of these soil organisms live near the roots of our plants.  As they eat, grow, and move through the soil, they make it possible to have cleaner water, cleaner air, and healthier plants.
They decompose manure, dead plant material, and even pesticides, preventing them from entering water and becoming pollutants. They sequester nitrogen and other nutrients that might otherwise enter groundwater, and they fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, making it and other nutrients available to our plants.”2 Many of these little guys enhance soil texture, reducing runoff, and they also prey on crop pests.  Because they thrive around the roots of our plants, where there is bare ground, they die off.

So, what do we do with bare soil that is waiting for our tomatoes, peppers, squashes and pumpkins to spread over it?

Several things come to mind:

We can plant quick-growing plant seeds like radishes that will cover the ground until our crops fill in the space, preventing weed seeds from finding a home and giving food to the millions of micro-organisms in our soil,   

or plant flower seeds that attract pollinators to our gardens. Territorial Seed Company informs us that a female pumpkin flower needs to be visited 8-10 times by a pollinator for adequate pollination.  They suggest planting bee-attracting flowers such as borage or cosmos next to pumpkins to help generate higher yields3.

Interplanting in our garden beds can increase our yields and keep our underground workers happy as well.  Look at this idea:  baby spinach growing between rows of garlic.  The spinach leaves will be harvested before the spinach plants bolt and the garlic is ready to pull.  Lettuce is another ideal crop because the thin garlic leaves partially shade the early leaf crops as they, in turn, keep weeds from spouting in the garlic.

Here is the same idea in reverse:  onion sets growing between rows of broccoli and kale.  Plant tall leaf-growing plants in between wide leaf-growing plants and wide leaf-growing plant in between rows of tall leaf-growing plants. 




Also consider growing crops in blocks rather than rows.  Here are blocks of Swiss chard, beets, and lettuce separated by rows of beans.  The beans were planted between the blocks when seeds were not sown evenly.


All these growing ideas are like green mulches – keeping the weeds out and the soil moist on hot summer days -- and also helping the little organisms build a living soil.

We can also help the food web within our soil overwinter by planting cover crops.  And that’s also why we encourage all gardeners not to till their gardens in the spring because tilling interrupts the food web that is being built up in our soil.  Remember that building a living soil makes for healthy, delicious, sustainable plants in our gardens.

References
1Elaine Ingham, www.soilfoodweb.com


3Territorial Seed Company seed packet for Small Sugar Pumpkins.

For Additional Information on Soil Organisms

The Soil will save us, Kristin Ohlson, © 2014, Rodale Publishing.




Many thanks to Karen from the Corvallis Sustainability Coalition's Food Action Team, Edible Garden Group (FAT EGG) for this very informative and beautiful post!